12 Step Program

Wrapping a Robert Lambert Fruitcake

Nov 23, 2025

Production of my fruitcakes spans the year, from candying exotic citrus peels in January until I wrap the last ones in December. After over 20 years every nuance has been honed to the bone. I start months ahead, so the final process needs just my eyes and hands, my mind free to wander as I bake, or do final assembly.

1 Design, print and cut labels

First thing to do, last thing to use. Small runs and frequent changes mean I have never been able to have these printed. I design, print and hand cut them; I have earned a Master’s in exacto-blade.

2 Cut lengths of linen string

Quivers: A Love Story. These will tie the cheesecloth to the cake. I measure and cut them, then roll them into bundles in tin foil; later I can easily pull out one at a time.

3 Cut cheesecloth

The most punishing task. I need to cut 800 yards of cheesecloth into 1 ft. lengths, and the only way is one at a time. It snags easily, the weave needs to be straightened the length of the run or it will twist and won’t fit the cake. My one pound cake takes exactly 1 foot of cheesecloth, and exactly 1 yard of string.

4 Cut star garnish

It is time-consuming but not unpleasant to cut the thousands of citrus peel stars and flowers that top the cakes. This is the first step in cake production, as the peel left behind will go into the cakes. I move on to cutting all the peels for the year, then order the nuts and fruits, and prepare all to bake.

Once the cakes are baked they rest for about 8 weeks before I wrap them.

5 Harvest cedar sprigs for garnish

I cut branches along the stream, pinch ends into stacks that match the number of cakes I will assemble.

6 Peel parchment from cakes

Cutting these parchment cake pan liners I designed takes days, but they work so well it’s worth it. Done in early spring, soon as I know how many I’ll need. The cakes keep these jackets until they’re ready to wrap—sometimes years later.

7 Liquor for cakes and cloth

The liquors have been decanted into 5 gallon buckets and infused with herbs and spices weeks before. 2 1/2 cups soaks 16 cakes, half on the cakes and half on the cloth.